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The Perfect Twist Out. It’s something that all the natural hair gurus seem to achieve. They make it look so easy, but if you’ve ever been a new natural, you know how frustrating it can be to work on your hair for hours only for it not to turn out how you want it. Lucky for you, I’ve tried it all! So, I’m telling you how to get the perfect twist out on natural hair.

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Start on freshly washed, deep conditioned, damp hair.

This first step is key. For the perfect twist out, you have to start on fresh, clean hair. And part of the wash day process includes deep conditioning, which I have an entire post dedicated to here. The last part of this step is to start on damp hair. Not dry, not soaking wet, damp. THIS. IS. KEY! Too much or not enough moisture can easily ruin this style. So, if you have high porosity hair, you may need a spray bottle to add moisture. If you have low porosity hair, you may need a microfiber towel to get rid of excess moisture. Either way, having clean, damp hair is the first step.

Apply a moisturizing leave-in conditioner (in the shower if possible).

The foundation to any successful natural hairstyle is moisture. This is why I suggest starting with a moisturizing leave-in conditioner. And if you want it to be even more effective, apply it while you’re still in the shower. I’ve mentioned it before, but applying leave-in while your cuticles are open from the steam and your hair is still warm is the best way to get that moisture in. Some of my favorite leave-in conditioners are this one by The Mane Choice, this great hair milk by Mielle Organics, and of course, my favorite leave-in by Shea Moisture.

Take small to medium sized sections of hair.

The amount of air you use per twist determines the amount of definition you get. So, if you want a really defined twist out, use smaller sized sections of hair per twist. If you prefer more volume than definition, use medium sized sections. Using small to medium sized sections also helps with drying time. Just make sure not to make the twists too big!

Part your hair the way you want it to lay.

This step is pretty self explanatory. If you want a side part, establish that part before you begin twisting. Same for a middle part–create the part before you start twisting. If you wait until take down to make your part, you can cause excess frizz, or it just may not lay the way you want it to. So, before you twist the front of your hair, make your part. It’ll save you time in the end.

Spray hair with warm water (as needed) & oil (optional) and detangle.

As I said in the first step, damp hair is key. But as you work through your hair, some sections are bound to dry out. So, spray with warm water if you need it. This is also the time to add an oil if you prefer the LOC method for moisturizing hair. I have an entire post here all about different ways to use oils if you need help deciding whether or not to use one. And the last part of this step is detangling. I like to detangle in the shower, so I don’t have much detangling to do at this step, but if you do, detangle damp hair in small sections, working from ends to roots. If your hair is tangled as you’re trying to twist it, you might as well give up! There are tons of detangling combs and brushes out there these days, but I’ll link my favorite one here. After this step, you are almost ready to begin twisting!

Apply a curling cream or smoothie.

The last product I add to my hair before twisting is a curling cream or smoothie. I apply the product liberally all over the section of hair, making sure to really work it in and get the ends. My favorite curling creams are the Texture ID Styling Creme and the Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer from TGIN. Applying a cream will not only add more moisture, but it also gives a little more hold to the style. And since I add a heavy cream, I skip the oil in the last step. These creams often contain butters and oils as the first ingredients, so in order to prevent weighing down my hair, I may just skip the oil.

Twist tightly and coil the ends.

Finally! You’re ready to twist! When twisting, make sure you are twisting the hair together tightly and coiling the ends with your finger, detangling as needed on the way down. As you twist, keep your hands and fingers close to where you are working to ensure that it is tight enough. If you find it hard to grip your roots, try braiding the root first a couple of turns, and then switch to twisting. Practice makes perfect!

Allow hair to completely dry.

If you miss this step, you can ruin your entire twist out! You HAVE to allow your hair to completely dry before manipulating it or taking it down. I think it’s best to let your hair dry at least overnight or sit under a hooded dryer. And when sleeping, make sure you have a satin scarf or bonnet over your hair to protect it from friction. Basically, check the roots and the densest parts of your hair before takedown. If it is 100% dry, you are ready for takedown!

Add oil to your hands and fingers before unraveling.

Before unraveling your twists, there is one more thing you need to do in order to get the perfect twist out: add oil to your hands and fingers. Not only does this make your hair shiny, but it reduces friction and eliminates frizz during the takedown process. You can use any light oil, like olive, almond, coconut oil for this–whatever you like!

Carefully unravel.

It’s finally time to unravel your twists! Unravel each twist separately by carefully twisting in the opposite direction. If you did neat, tight twists, they should easily unravel into two even strands. And if you braided the root, be extra careful when unraveling. You’re almost there!

Separate and fluff to desired volume.

This is another step that can make or break your perfect twist out. Separate your strands, starting at the ends, where the hair wants to naturally separate. If you need to add more oil to your fingers during this time, that’s okay. After you’ve separated the strands where they naturally want to separate, it’s time to fluff. Use a pick or wide tooth comb to fluff the roots only, not the length of your hair. Of course, fluffing is optional, but it is how you get your desired shape and volume. So, fluff to your heart’s content.

Wrap your hair at night.

The last step for the perfect twist out is maintenance. I’d hate for you to spend all of this time on your hair just for it to only last a day. So, wrap your hair at night. I recommend the pineapple method, and if your hair is shorter, multiple pineapples! My hair works best with two puffs in the front and one in the back with satin scrunchies. Then, add your favorite–either a bonnet or a satin scarf. And that’s it! In the morning, you should just have to take off the scarf/bonnet, take out the scrunchies, pick/fluff, and go!

Whew! That’s it! These are all of the steps to get the perfect twist out on natural hair. Do you have any other steps in your twist out routine? Try this one, and leave a comment if it works for you. I’d love to know! Or, take a selfie of your perfect twist out and tag me on Instagram @naturalblackvegan.

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